The
Nadur Carnival
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The
Nadur Carnival
What
gravitates the people to this distinct Carnival is its spontaneity. It
only starts when the people come and finishes when they leave - that’s
how spontaneous it is! Of course, the Nadurese continue their
celebrations right up to the early hours of the next day, and maybe this
is what makes it so different to the structured one in Victoria. When
it’s just beginning, the one in Victoria is over. So much so, that the
streets are deserted; shops are closed for the night; and the people
themselves drive up to Nadur. So,
when does this fiesta take place? - it starts on a Saturday and ends on
a Tuesday. And what’s so exciting about it?! For a start, it is a
unique experience and more so to be a part of it. The fact that it is
not something organized makes it all the more attractive and astounding
at the same time, because out of its unconstrained revelry, emerges a
natural reflection of Maltese characters from all walks of life. People
gather on both sides of December 13th Street to watch the maneuvers and
lively jests of these masquerades, who parade up and down mimicking and
daring under the safe hiding of the Mask. What is so unique and
exhilarating to see this experience is the mass confusion of spectacle
and colour, and the masked and hooded creatures making their way through
a hub of noise.
In
contrast to this sonorous atmosphere, is the uncanny silence of the
masquerades themselves. They perambulate by, oblivious of the hubbub
around them until they see a familiar face in the crowd. A quaint kind
of communication commences, in which the Mask teasingly hides the
identity and every effort of association is greeted with a negative
gesture. Then,
by a gallant wave of the hand the silent conversation ends as quickly as
it began. This shielding of identity is the main point of everything in
this Carnival, because what is celebrated is the individual seen in the
various simulations of professions and trades - a parody of reality. All
these personalities utterly defy any description. Grotesque masks bought
locally or sent from abroad rival with home-made ones, made out of cloth
with holes cut into them. Creativity is the word to describe the junk
which serves a purpose - rags, bed sheets, broken prams and pushcarts,
farming implements, and bedraggled mattresses (usually occupied by a
couple sprawled upon them), chain-saws revving away with cutting chains
removed, a horse seemingly berserk, prancing up and down the street and
occasionally popping into a bar for a drink, boiler suits, or a
brilliant representation of a man strolling by upside down. What goes on
along with all this is the tremendous sense of humour; the action; the
complexity of these creations; the desire for grotesque fun; and the
teasing anonymity of the masquerades.
Whatever
the reason, its magnetism is a winning one. And certainly, Carnival in
Nadur is just not the same if one does not participate. So, for a couple
of hours, I put down my camera and crept back to join in the revelry. |
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Back
in the village of Nadur, life is as usual, as ever. Yet, anticipation
was in the air for the coming celebration - Carnival. The Carnival
festivities are looked forward to eagerly by the Nadurin who celebrate
them in an original way, and also by many others who flock to this
village as spectators or to take part in the merry-making. This is the
time of year when the main street of the village entertains an orgy of
masquerades wildly taking the mickey out of each other and out of
everyone else! The village may not be the central point of activity in
Gozo in other seasons, but not so during Carnival! 
They
say that the Carnival in the old times was a celebration for male
revelers only. But not so in Nadur! Some of the locals even remember
women who took part in the ‘Ghana’ the traditional folk songs, and
others who dressed up as men. Many still do it and take great pains to
hide their femininity! On the other hand, there are the men who dress up
as women in an outrageous way, which leaves no doubt to their
masculinity. Somehow, they just love the idea of going out with an ample
bust and sexy legs, if somewhat hairy, tottering around on high heels!
Accompanying them, is always the music which enlivens the atmosphere
even more. An endless rhythm created by the guitar, the castanets, the
tambourine, the triangle and the ‘rabboba’ adding a touch to the
celebration.. The musicians gather inside a bar, followed by cavorting
revelers who dance to the enticing melody heard only during such time.
The effect is a pulsating rhythm, a swirling of movement, a clamour of
sound and a medley of costumes, from the highly sophisticated to sheer
rags. 
